Saturday, August 15 - GSA tour day 7

Once again a delightful breakfast and the hotel offered to store our luggage in a small room until our ferry left that afternoon.

We gathered outside and began our walk to the top of the volcano - Eldfjell - formed in 1973.  The main color of the tephra, the material ejected by the volcano, was red.  Small pieces crunched underfoot as we walked up the pathway.

 

The path we took up

Red tephra

Jóhann chatted with us as we made our way to the top.  At one point he stopped so that Genevieve could record him talking about Eldfjell and later show it to her students.  Unfortunately I can't figure out how to copy that from our group's Facebook page and get it here for you to see.  I would like to share that with you if I can ever figure out how to do it just so you could get a live glimpse of this person we grew to love.

Genevieve taping Jóhann

 

Jóhann told us that he was in high school at the time of the eruption, and the day after the eruption he headed over to Heimaey and began to help.  He stayed for a number of weeks, and told us it was much better than going to school.  Now he's a teacher.  Would he encourage his students to do the same?

Later, in a separate blog, I'll write about this eruption and the formation of Eldfjell.  The original volcano on the island is Helgafjell.  "Fjell" refers to mountain; "Eld" refers to fire; and "Helga" refers to holy.

Looking south from Eldfjell, with Helgafjell on the right

At the top, we were amazed at the many colors in the tephra.  Most minerals needed high heat and moisture to oxidize and show their colors.  We took turns sitting on the "high rock."

Sitting at the top

 

Jóhann showed us some little "caves" in the rocks that still were venting heat from the volcano.  A few of us warmed our hands a bit.  He then took us back to town the short and easy way to get us to the museum.  This museum is one of the few I have ever enjoyed.  The displays were excellent, and it included a house that they had uncovered from the ash/tephra so that you could see the damage done.  I believe the museum was built around the excavation - they didn't move the house.  We spent well over an hour there, first watching a great movie and then using headsets that were programmed to talk about each area in which we were standing.

The museum's upper level was about the formation of Surtsey Island between 1963 and 1967.  It was protected from human interference from the beginning, providing the world with a pristine natural laboratory.  It is amazing how plants, birds, and invertebrates have been colonizing this new island.  It was declared a World Heritage Site in 2008.  It is already eroding due to wave action and it is estimated that it will disappear below water level in the early 22nd century.

On our walk back to the hotel, we went through the town cemetery and passed a few interesting sculptures.  Back at the hotel, we were served a lunch of sandwiches, Skyr, and fruit, plus wonderful hot coffee.  The man who brought our food asked if he could show us a video about the Eldfjell eruption.  Of course!  So we watched another amazing video of the eruption that had many first hand stories from those who experienced it all.

A cemetery without a cache

At that point, we were told that arrangements had been successfully made for us to take a boat tour around the island.  There had been some uncertainty about the schedule, and we were happy that it was truly going to happen.  We started walking to the harbor with about an hour in which to enjoy the good weather and views.

One of many wall murals

I was strolling with Kathy, and she was checking out her game to see if we would go by any locations she could capture.  We had dropped a bit behind the rest of the group.

A truck pulled up and a young man jumped out, ran over to Kathy and pretty much told her that they wanted to drive her to a spot a few kilometers south on the island so that he and his team could do something special in the game.  Kathy explained that we were with a group and were scheduled for a boat tour.  He assured her it would take less than half an hour.  She was looking a bit uncomfortable, so I told her that if it worked, I would go with her so that she wouldn't have to be alone.  Why not have an adventure if it fit into our schedule?

Meanwhile Matt and a few others had gathered around.  The most important thing, of course, was whether Matt and Jóhann would be comfortable with us leaving the group.  After some discussion, it was agreed that the team would leave two of their players behind with our group, and Kathy and I would head off with the other two in the truck.  We teased about being abducted.

Someone noted that we would be near the locations needed for a few caches, so we agreed to see if we could accomplish this for all.  We made a 2 woman for a 2 man exchange, and Kathy and I hopped into their enormous truck.  We headed south through town to the southernmost part of the island.  At the first stop, they and Kathy made some exchanges of resources - trading things they each had in excess.

All a mystery to me, so I just took photos

 

At the first stop

 

Kathy and I walked just a bit up the hill to the waypoint for an earthcache to get the altitude there.  During this entire time, she was explaining geocaching to them and they were interested in knowing more about that game.  It also turned out that they were the people who had responded to her captures last night.

View from the earthcache waypoint - nothing special

They guys in constant communication with their buddies with our tour group, and it was decided that there was time for us to go to the Puffin Observatory and find the cache there.  This gave them a first hand experience of what it is to find a container.

Kathy signing the log for the group

With that accomplished, we had a wild ride back through town to meet up with our group.  Again, their communication was perfect and they drove right to where our group was waiting.  We teased some more about abductions, so I had a photo taken of that happening.  And then I got hugs from each of them.

 

Being abducted by the men of Reykjavik

 

I may never understand the game, but it certainly brought a lot of fun into my life today.

 

We strolled down to the location for the boat tour and Jóhann found the place to get our tickets and we were soon boarding a small boat for a tour around the entire island.  This wasn't on the original schedule, so may have been something the tour company arranged for us to make up for the broken van.

 

I love being on the water, and when you are seeing such glorious things as this island, nothing could be better.  I'll post some favorite pictures here.

 

Nesting places - we only saw flying puffins

 

Puffin Observatory from below

Basalt columns forming a rose

Basalt elephant

Approaching acoustic cave

Entering acoustic cave

Inside acoustic cave

Concert by the skipper

Yes, the acoustics were great.

 

All too soon we were back on land with some free time before the ferry would take us back to the mainland.  Jóhann offered to take us to "see the ropes."  I had no idea what that meant, but didn't want to miss it.  Debbie, Mike, Matt and I joined him for a walk to the west side of town.  Turns our the ropes hang from the cliffs, you grab an end, climb up a bit and then swing.  Again, if I ever figure out how to get a video here, I will post one of either Jóhann or Mike swinging.  Debbie and I tried, didn't do all that well, but we positively can say that we participated in sprangan.

Enlarge photo for directions!

 

The day was far from over.  We headed back to the hotel where the rest of the gang were having tea, hot chocolate or whatever tickled their fancies.  Soon we retrieved our luggage, loaded the open trailer, and walked to the harbor.  If you lived here, you could do well without owning a car, as everything is within easy walking distance.

By the time we got on the ferry, there were no good seats left inside, so we pretty much congregated on the back outside deck.  Back on mainland Iceland, it was the same story, down some steps, gather your luggage, down some more steps, and then head to the van.

Once everything was loaded in the trailer and van, it was time to head straight to Reykjavik.  It was pretty late by the time we arrived, and as soon as we were settled in, we headed to the restaurant for our farewell dinner.  Because her plane was leaving so early, Nona said goodbye to us all here and went back to get a bit of sleep.  This was a true 7 course meal with all sorts of delicacies.  (yes, another first for me)  The courses were being served at long intervals, and finally Matt asked if things could be speeded up because we were hungry for the main dishes and also very tired.  This was about the time that Jóhann said his good-bye to all of us.  He will soon be a pensioner, and I know that he will be spending far more time hiking, guiding, and exploring.  He currently teaches new guides how to lead tours during his summer breaks from teaching at school.  If I were ever to return to Iceland it would only be if I could spend some time with him.

It was well after midnight when the last few of us headed back to the hotel.  Liz had left a room key for me downstairs, so I didn't have to disturb her, although she was still up.  I quickly organized my things for heading home, and when Liz was ready to settle in, all I needed to know was how to deal with the lights in the room.  We left one little panel on after turning everything else off.  I was wired, so checked e-mail and read on the Kindle for a bit.  Finally I decided I should really try to settle in.  I couldn't figure out how to turn off that little panel of lights, and gave up.  After an hour, I realized I needed to get those lights off if I was going to sleep.  I finally realized there was a switch next to Liz's bed that I needed to turn off.  Not sure why the lighting had to be so complicated.  Why not a simple little light over your bed that you can turn off?

Oh well, I could sleep on the plane tomorrow if necessary.  I think the reasons it took me until about 4 am to go to sleep was excitement about the wonderful day and sadness about going home.